Equal Parts

For Christmas one year I asked for a traditional beanpot, which is really just a dutch oven in a shape conducive to cooking beans: wide-bellied, somewhat teardrop-like, curved to hold heat and moisture for the hours it takes to turn ordinary dried beans into a tender, hearty comfort dish. This ask came during my tenure at the bakery, where we made a daily soup to go with our bread. On the menu at the time was a version of Jewish cholent, the slow-cooked bean and barley stew traditionally simmered overnight on Friday so as to avoid cooking on the Sabbath. Our intentions very much bucked tradition; we made this stew expressly for work during a single daytime shift, and I simply wanted to duplicate the aroma back home. Furthermore, I thought I’d stock my cupboard with heirloom beans and cook a pot every Sunday for use in soups, salads, and other dishes throughout the week. With the beans in the oven I would read hard copies of the weekend papers, write a critical essay, or watch an acclaimed film — after a neighborhood run, of course.

But the reality of my weekends wasn’t quite so perfect. In between books and movies were empty cupboards and dirty laundry and the accumulation of dust, all to be dealt with, plus naps. It is probably for the best that Santa didn’t bring the beanpot, as it more likely would have created a storage issue rather than abundant meals. Instead I received a book called Bean by Bean that I had asked for in companion, though it seemed somewhat less useful without its partner pot. I eventually donated it, and today I am not the bean expert of my fantasies.

There’s a local restaurant in town that sometimes has a very good black bean soup — I say sometimes because the other times it is very salty, and often the restaurant service is not great. But when it’s good, it heats you like a bear hug, warms your toes and your soul — fitting because this restaurant’s decor theme is kodiak brown bear breaks into ski chalet.

We have tried many times to create a homemade version of this soup by following random recipes from the internet. (The first time: Why is this soup so watery? … Oh, this recipe calls for dried beans … Heading to Kroger, be right back!) This is where we’ve landed. We first made it last Saturday, had leftovers on Sunday, finished and said to each other, “Want to make this again tomorrow?” Now we are on Day 5 of this soup with no sign of stopping.

BLACK BEAN SOUP

You’ll need:
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large white onion
3 stalks celery
1 green pepper
1 tsp mustard powder
1 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp coriander
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
6 cloves garlic, minced
4 cans of black beans, rinsed and drained
4 cups vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
1 lime, juiced
Avocado, sliced (optional)
Cilantro, chopped (optional)
Cheese, such as cotija, queso fresco, or monterey jack (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and green pepper, and cook until softened, about 10-15 minutes. Add the spices and garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minutes. Add the beans, vegetable stock, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Remove the bay leaf. Use an immersion blender to partially purée. I like the texture to be smooth and consistent, but thick. Stir in the lime juice, then taste and add salt and pepper if needed. Serve immediately, topped with sliced avocado, cilantro, and/or cheese as desired.