Equal Parts

Some people make a rule to never order chicken in a restaurant, and choose steak or seafood simply because it’s an alternative to the at-home staple. I historically have taken the opposite approach. For a long while, the chicken I cooked at home was always dry and bland, and I largely gave up on it. So the tender, moist, flavorful chicken dishes coming out of restaurant kitchens were a treat! Specifically I’m thinking about the seared chicken with potatoes and mustard at Table 5, or the Greek salad with mind-blowingly good grilled chicken from a local diner. They serve what chicken is supposed to be.

I’ve been working hard to tip the scales in favor of homemade chicken, and mostly with success [Exhibits A, B, and C]. Earlier this week I had my best try yet, with Ina Garten’s pan-seared chicken breasts and shallot beurre blanc. Its preparation involved me getting over my fear of all pan-searing, which in actuality is a fear of hot, splattering oil. (Sidenote: after I wrote this, my mom sent me Molly Stevens’ All About Roasting, and it’s apparent that I need this sear technique to properly cook from it. So in many ways this chicken was therapeutic.)

When I previously tried to sear meat — and it’s been years — I always timidly backed away from the proper heat, and removed the dish from the burner too soon. Of course this never yielded the golden brown exterior the recipe called for. This time, with Jeff in the background cheering me on — “nope, don’t turn it down” and “still another minute” — boy oh boy did it ever work! The flipped chicken revealed a perfectly brown crust, before roasting in the oven to cook completely.

This chicken would be enough on its own (it actually had us shouting restaurant chicken!!! while we devoured it), but Ina instructs to make a beurre blanc sauce, and I’m so glad we did. Beurre blanc is a classic French butter sauce with white wine, shallots, and vinegar or lemon juice. I expected it to be decadent, and it was, but I was surprised by its lightness and brightness. We also spooned it over steamed asparagus and sautéed mushrooms, and finished the bottle of white wine, and I felt very, very French. I’m dying to throw a dinner party that starts with a kir royale and ends with a plate of blue cheese, and in between is this chicken and a salad of frisée with a mustard vinaigrette, and if you have too much sauvignon blanc you can spend the night and I’ll make kouign-amman in the morning.

Mom, if you’re reading, I want Melissa Clark’s new book, Dinner in French. (wink wink)

PAN-SEARED CHICKEN WITH BEURRE BLANC, inspired by Ina Garten

For the chicken, you’ll need:
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, 6 to 8 oz each (Ina calls for skin-on, but this is what we had and they were excellent)
1 tbsp vegetable or canola oil
Salt and Pepper

For the beurre blanc, you’ll need:
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup lemon juice (about 1 large lemon)
1/4 cup minced shallot (or onion, if that’s all you have)
3 tbsp heavy cream
4 tbsp butter, cut into cubes
Salt and Pepper

Heat the oven to 425.

Use paper towels to pat the chicken breasts dry, and generously season both sides with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy, oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat until it nearly begins to smoke (it’s scary, but you can do it!). Add the chicken breasts (skin-side down if applicable) to the skillet and cook without moving for 4-5 minutes, until golden brown. Use tongs to flip the chicken breasts, then transfer to the oven to cook through, about 12-15 minutes, until a thermometer measures 165 at the thickest part.

Make the beurre blanc while the chicken roasts. Combine the white wine, lemon juice, and shallot in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid is reduced to about 2 tbsp, about 5 minutes. Add the cream, 1 tsp of salt, and 1/4 tsp of black pepper, and bring to a full boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until incorporated. (Adding the butter off the heat is what defines beurre blanc and according to my understanding is what allows the sauce to emulsify and prevent separation.)

To serve, set each chicken breast on a plate and spoon some of the beurre blanc over it.

STEAMED ASPARAGUS

Asparagus can very quickly turn to a mushy, stringy, unappetizing pile. I have had the most success with steaming. Add about 1-inch of water to a medium sauce pan, then insert a metal steaming basket, and set over high heat. To prepare the asparagus stalks, break off the woody ends and cut them into 1-2 inch pieces (though they can certainly be left whole). When the water is boiling, add the asparagus to the basket, cover, lower the heat to a simmer, and steam for 5-6 minutes. The asparagus should be tender, not limp. Transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper (and butter, though I usually opt not to).