Coffeecake Salad

Our kids can participate in whatever sports they choose, but I wear my Beaver Creek sweatshirt weekly just so Olivia can point to it and I can say, “Beaver Creek! This is where I’ll take you skiing one day!” (Also it is exceptionally comfortable, the fleece perfectly worn.)

Yesterday the girls and I took a morning walk to the high school tennis courts, where Jeff was playing with a friend who conveniently gave Olivia her first “lesson.” These could be your courts too, Olivia!

For his birthday a few weeks ago I took Jeff downtown to the flagship storefront of Detroit label Greyson Clothiers, a brand I would describe as fashion meets sport, in particular golf. We learned they didn’t just carry menswear, and though I didn’t buy myself the royal blue ribbed leggings with drawstring waist and matching tank, we did come home with a ruffled athleisure top for Olivia that we purposely purchased large so it will fit her this summer and next. For her first putt putt outing, perhaps?

After shopping we walked down the block to dinner at San Morello, where Jeff had the best gnocchi of his life, and I a beet salad I’ve since recreated twice at home. (I also had the roast chicken, which was great, sure, but not when measured against the brown butter roast chicken from The Dixboro.) I forgive the kitchen for using purple beets when the menu said golden because the lemon poppyseed yogurt upon which they sat was so memorable. It actually reminded me of lemon poppyseed coffee cake, which I suppose proves the legitimacy of this classic pairing.

GOLDEN BEET SALAD WITH LEMON POPPYSEED YOGURT

First, roast the beets. I suggest about 6 small golden beets, though large purple beets would of course also work. Heat oven to 400 and line a sheet tray with foil. Clean and trim the beets and wrap each individually in foil. Bake on the sheet tray for about 40-60 minutes, rotating every 20 minutes to avoid burning, until the beets can easily be pierced with a fork. Remove from the oven and let cool. Peel the skin from the beets and cut each into approximately 1/2-inch cubes.

Meanwhile, make the yogurt. Stir together 1-2 cups of whole-milk Greek yogurt, the zest of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon, about 1 tsp poppyseeds, and a pinch of salt.

Use a spatula to layer the yogurt over a serving tray or bowl. Arrange the chopped beets atop the yogurt. Drizzle with honey. Sprinkle with tarragon (or another herb) and some flaky salt.

Tiny Love Stories

These short write-ups are my version of the New York Times’ Tiny Love Stories. Tiny Love Stories : Modern Love :: Mini-Blogs : Blogs.

The answer to most food-related conundrums might be dip. What should I have for a snack? Dip. What should I bring to share? Dip. What will enhance this dinner? Dip. I’ve written about one of Julia Turshen’s dips before, but I’ve recently started buying canned white beans in bulk because Olivia’s been eating CANNELINI PIMENTÓN DIP by the spoonful. Also tasty for adults. (Simply Julia by Julia Turshen, p. 186, and recipe below)

How many dips is too many? The limit does not exist. In Salad-ish, a book I love conceptually but generally find a bit too fussy, there’s a recipe for a WINTER CRUDITÉ PLATTER of roasted vegetables and a yogurt dip with toasted seeds. The recipe requires you to have whole cumin on hand and cut your vegetables into scoopable shapes — both of which I can handle. It is a completely fresh take on the standard veggie tray and a reminder that winter vegetables – potatoes, carrots, beets, romanesco — are fun too. (Salad-ish by Ilene Rosen, p. 158)

Never have I ever made more baked oatmeal in my life, and Jeff and I made it nearly every weekend in 2016. Elyse Kopecky shared a “red” baked oatmeal for Valentine’s Day consisting of strawberries and shredded beets, and it has become my second favorite baked oatmeal for sure. I make two trays at a time because the toddler enjoys this flavor just as much as I do. STRAWBERRY BEET BAKED OATMEAL (Elyse Kopecky and recipe adapted below)

I remember hearing about one pot pasta ten years ago, when food blogging was still mostly for writers and not just those with a video production team. Every feed I subscribed to was trying the original Martha Stewart version. I was confused (The tomatoes go in too? And you don’t drain it?). Last fall my curiosity finally tipped the scale when I tried Lindsay Maitland-Hunt’s wholesome, herbaceous, zesty, peppery ONE POT SPICY AND CREAMY CHICKEN PASTA. News flash: this is an incredible way to cook pasta. It’s fast and efficient, which is how I want/need all of my dinners to come together these days. (Healthyish by Lindsay Maitland-Hunt, p. 157)

Now I see one pot pastas everywhere, so move over last year’s broccoli mac & cheese. I tried Ali Slagle’s one pot version and I’m never looking back. About a week ago, during the magical hour when both girls were napping, I emptied a box of noodles into the Dutch oven with some salt and garlic powder. Then I chopped a head of broccoli, shredded some cheddar, and set everything on the counter. Dinner prep was done, and most of my free hour was still available.  Thank you, Ali Slagle, for including “me time” in your recipe! Later, the cook time was only as long as it took Jeff to wake Olivia from her daylight savings nap and walk to the mailbox (her favorite evening activity — she must sit at the counter and sort the papers with Dada). It felt like practically no work and the payoff was my favorite comfort food. Broccoli mac and cheese > mac and cheese.  I hope the girls ask for this as they grow up! ONE POT BROCCOLI MAC & CHEESE (The New York Times)

Jeff’s new truck was available for pickup on a perfect fall day last year — peak colors, bluebird sky. While he ventured from Detroit to Grayling to Bay Harbor and back, testing the features of his first electric vehicle, Olivia and I had a girls day at the park. I had a pregnancy craving for enchiladas, so I continued my adventure by trying a new and slightly time-consuming recipe. Molly Yeh’s CREAM CHEESE CHICKEN ENCHILADAS, which she made for her then-pregnant sister-in-law, are a dream. Tasty, warm, and comforting, they are perfect for an early fall night. And a perfect home-cooked meal to return to after a day on the road. At least that’s what Jeff said when he made it home in time for dinner! (Home is Where the Eggs Are by Molly Yeh, p. 181)

Lasagna is a popular choice to bring to new parents for great reason. It is comforting, a crowd pleaser, and easy to both reheat and freeze. We received lasagnas in the days after both girls' births, and I’m eternally grateful. We also received a wildcard in the baked pasta category (one of my all-time favorite food categories), Smitten Kitchen’s MUSHROOM MARSALA PASTA BAKE, and holy smokes it is delicious! Adding this to my master list; maybe I’ll remake it every year in late January to celebrate Hallie (and the work I did birthing her)! (Smitten Kitchen)

I’ve written about my love of chicken shawarma, fattoush, hummus, and baba ganoush, but I don’t think I’ve touched on our other Mediterranean favorite, CRUSHED LENTIL SOUP. Did you know that this greenish-in-color soup is actually made with red lentils? I didn’t either until I tried Lindsay Maitland-Hunt’s version, which she suggests topping with a dollop of cilantro lime yogurt. Making this is easier than placing a takeout order and driving to pick it up. Olivia eats it by the spoonful — both the soup and the yogurt!  (Healthyish by Lindsay Maitland-Hunt, p. 108)

CANNELINI PIMENTÓN DIP, from Julia Turshen

You’ll need:
2 garlic cloves
2 cans cannelini beans
2 tsp pimentón
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 cup olive oil (sometimes I use a little less, depending on the consistency I want)
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

With a food processor running, toss the garlic cloves through the opening at the top (this chops them finely without sticking). Turn the machine off, add the rest of the ingredients, then process again until smooth.

STRAWBERRY BEET BAKED OATMEAL, inspired by Elyse Kopecky

You’ll need:
2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup almond flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
1-1/2 cups whole milk
2 eggs
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp maple syrup
1 tsp vanilla
1 cup chopped fresh strawberries
1 small beet, raw — peeled and grated

Heat oven to 400. Prepare an 8x8 baking dish (or similar size) with cooking spray.

In a large bowl, combine the oats, almond flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt. In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, olive oil, maple syrup, and vanilla. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir to combine. Stir in the strawberries and beet. Pour into the prepared dish, and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until set in the middle.

Welcome, Hallie Madeline!

You think when you bring your second child home that you will have time for absolutely nothing. No showering, no cooking, no folding of the laundry, no cleaning of the countertops, certainly no writing that isn’t typed with a single thumb on a phone during a midnight feed, trying to capture a cute moment the sisters shared earlier that day.

Because some variation of that was true for the firstborn (did I brush my teeth that first week or just swish mouthwash around before I ran downstairs to make another bottle?), and you think the second is going to bring double the work. Surely there won’t be time for any housework, and this time there’s a toddler who needs to eat.

Then, the second night we were home Jeff asked what sort of fancy, can-have-whatever-I-choose meal I wanted him to make for dinner. My parent brain answered soup or salmon and he responded boring! then made me mushroom risotto. Whereas my mom did all of our grocery shopping when Olivia was born (and I also had to call her back to wash and slice the fruit), in the past two weeks Jeff has been to three different grocery stores, the fish market, Costco, and Target multiple times. On Monday he pulled his truck out of the garage to completely detail it. On Tuesday he sharpened all of our knives.

For my part, I’ve showered every day, and only once in the afternoon. I’ve never skipped brushing my teeth, and I’ve flossed too. All of Hallie’s laundry has been folded and put away properly in the dresser or closet, notably not in piles on the guest bed. We had a newborn photo session at our home, and the whole family was cleaned, dressed, and primped on time — actually 10 minutes before it started. I painted my nails two days in advance for the occasion. Yesterday I wrote a list of six possible chocolate cakes to make for Valentine’s Day. Today I wrote this.

It would be amazing if you could have second child confidence with the first child. People would learn to quilt, and take up mountain biking, and start businesses and non-profits, and solve world problems!

Jeff has been on a Michael Symon kick, and for his second home-cooked meal postpartum, Chef Jeff made Chef Symon’s roasted red pepper dip with feta, fried eggs with avocado salsa, and sweet potatoes with almond butter. We’ve already repeated the eggs and sweet potatoes, and the latter are worth remembering just for the almond butter, which is not the kind from the jar.

(And to think that “take down website” has been on my to-do list for the last six months!)

BAKED SWEET POTATOES WITH ALMOND BUTTER, inspired by Michael Symon

*In true chef style, the video demonstration is improvised and doesn’t list quantities of ingredients. Below is my guess.

Bake 2-3 sweet potatoes in oven for 60-90 minutes, depending on size. Toast about 1/2 cup almonds in oven, then let cool. Blitz almonds in food processor with herb of choice (mint, parsley, sage, etc.). Add contents to bowl with about 4 tbsp room temperature butter. Squeeze about 1 tbsp honey over the top. Use a fork to mash all together. When sweet potatoes are cooked through, remove from oven and slice down the center to create a pocket. Scoop a generous spoonful of almond butter into each sweet potato pocket. Finish with a pinch of flaky sea salt and urfa pepper (or similar), and an additional squeeze of honey and drizzle of olive oil if desired. Enjoy!

Something New

Even though I’ve barely cooked lately, I’ve held onto a list of delicious recipes from the past year to document here. And rather than quitting the blog, I’m going to try something new. Ultimately this website is a reference for me – I use it constantly in my kitchen – and I don’t want to forget about these dishes. Behold a series of links.

RIGATONI WITH HONEYNUT SQUASH AND CHARD from The Weekday Vegetarians is incredible, and – as I keep reminding Jeff – fall is almost here! Soon it will be time to add this back to the regular rotation. (The Weekday Vegetarians by Jenny Rosenstrach, p.84)

SPRING MINESTRONE WITH KALE AND PASTA is the perfect transition soup, for when it’s still a little chilly but the market is bursting with greens. I love this recipe. (The New York Times)

Jeff made me Giada’s RADICCHIO, PEAR, AND ARUGULA SALAD a couple of times recently and, wow, do I love it! As simple to prepare as your basic garden salad, but with a special complexity of flavor. Plus, croutons! (The Food Network)

Alongside the above, we’ve grilled PECAN CRUSTED WHITEFISH. Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on the filet, then top with a mix of crushed pecans, breadcrumbs, and a spice mix of your choosing. To really wow, get your fish from Monahan’s. Eat in your backyard, but pretend you are on the coast of the Leelanau Peninsula.

It seems like you wouldn’t need a recipe for GREEK SALAD, but I trust Jeanne Kelley implicitly, and we’ve been making her version regularly. The book is a dream – 200 pages of dinner salads, plus one dessert recipe, which happens to be chocolate cream pie. Incredible! (Salad for Dinner by Jeanne Kelley, p.52)

We had friends over and grilled something we’d never grilled before, ROSEMARY GARLIC CHICKEN BURGERS. Mayonnaise wins once again. Who knew ground chicken could be so flavorful?! Our homegrown rosemary helped too. It actually reminded me of kafta! (The Giadzy)

Our new go-to summer appetizer / side dish is Ina Garten’s ISRAELI VEGETABLE SALAD. Pro tip, buy your hummus, especially if you find yourself that day in Dearborn, Michigan, where the best of the best is made. Like if you’re taking your baby for a walk around Greenfield Village, then pick up a to-go container from Malek Al-Kabob on your way home. (Barefoot Contessa)

Last Christmas I asked for popsicle molds, because for years I’ve wanted to make WATERMELON POPSICLES. I love the method of making a simple syrup with the ground watermelon. These are great! (Orangette, adapted from David Lebovitz)

Really Into Salad-From-a-Bag

When the baby drops the second nap, as Olivia did at ten-and-a-half months, when does one cook dinner? These days, if it isn’t a sheet pan meal or from at least partially frozen beginnings, then I don’t really have time for it. Suddenly, I’m really into salad-from-a-bag: dump contents into bowl, toss with the packets of dressing and shredded cheese that also fell from said bag. Delicious!  I’m trying to research which slow cooker and/or instant pot to request from Santa. The alternative is a complicated juggling act, starting seconds after Jeff finishes his paid, full-time job, where we switch back and forth between the baby and the stovetop, and are actually present for none of it.

The great news is I don’t miss cooking. Watching Olivia mimic our every motion is infinitely more thrilling than trying a new recipe. Her latest thing, after watching Jeff moisturize once, is to rub her arms as if applying lotion. Hey Olivia, can you do lotion? [Cue adorable baby caressing her own arms and smiling like she knows how cute she is.]

So this is a pretty good one-pan chicken dish. I love a polenta tube. I love spice blends. I love produce that requires no chopping.

CHICKEN WITH POLENTA AND CHERRY TOMATOES, inspired by Katie Lee Biegel

You’ll need:
1 tube of polenta
2-3 chicken breasts
1 pint cherry tomatoes
Parmesan
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Italian seasoning

I’m keeping this informal because I don’t think this recipe needs to be as precise as Katie wrote it.

Heat oven to 400 and spray the bottom of a baking dish. Cut the polenta into 1/2-inch thick slices and lay them across the bottom of the baking dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Add the chicken atop the polenta. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, Italian seasoning, and shredded parmesan. Arrange the tomatoes around the chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add a healthy drizzle of olive oil over everything.

Bake for about 30-40 minutes, until internal temperature of the chicken measures 165.

Sounds Like Part of the Subtitle of a Buzzy Cookbook

I’ve usually been the one to wake up first, sneak out of bed as quietly as possible, gently shut the door behind me, and oftentimes head downstairs to bake muffins or biscotti. An hour or so later, Jeff would wake to the smell of cinnamon and coffee and walk into the kitchen smiling. We’d each get the morning we wanted, extra rest in the form of more sleep, or through the restorative practice of baking.

Jeff said he’d make me breakfast on Mother’s Day, and I figured that while he was at the stove I would be hanging out with the baby in the playroom behind the kitchen, reading her favorite books. Mid-story, she’d get every toy out of the bin to throw around the room, then chase them down and toss again, her preferred way to play these days.

That didn’t happen.

Instead I woke to the smell of cinnamon and coffee wafting through the hall and into the foyer, up the stairs and around the corner, through the crack in the bedroom door over to me, where I was very cozy under the covers. Wow. I didn’t know the pleasure I was missing, as the early-riser, head household baker. It was the sweetest dream come true! I sat up and did just that, sat there: relaxed, breathed deeply, and marveled at what Jeff had done, what I usually did. I started the daily Wordle, and as soon as he heard me shuffling he entered with a pot of coffee, a tray of Danish pancakes, and shirred eggs with ham and swiss, one of the first dishes he ever made for me. The baby slept through it all, so he ate with me.

It’s funny, all weekend I kept forgetting that Mother’s Day was for me now, too. We made plans to see both of our moms, and at each celebration I was surprised by the cards and gifts for me. My sister gave me a 30-year-old community cookbook from my town’s mothers’ club that she found at a used bookstore. Of course this is a perfect gift for me and my endless curiosity about how home cooks feed themselves and their families. It got us reminiscing about some of the classic 90s dishes my mom used to make, specifically what we called strawberry pretzel delight and what is often referred to as strawberry pretzel salad. It’s a layered dish composed of a crushed pretzel crust, cream cheese whipped cream, and strawberries held in strawberry jello, and it was on all of our Thanksgiving and Christmas tables growing up. Now I would call it a creamy bar dessert — in fact I made a pie inspired by this “salad” last weekend — but this was the midwest in the 90s, so alongside the turkey and potatoes it went! There were also Bisquick and sausage meatballs, which I had completely forgotten about until my mom brought them back last Thanksgiving. They’re on my mind a lot now.

What fun it is to think about the foods that define a family! The dishes that are made over and over, that become little celebrations, that hold our memories, that date themselves. This hits the heart of what I love about food. It’s not actually about the food, but instead everything that surrounds it, the stories of our lives.

I’ve noticed a recent pattern in my life, in that nearly every season I discover a new-to-me favorite pasta dish.  In the fall it was pasta con ceci. Last summer, pasta alla norma. A couple of years ago I tried an asparagus baked pasta in the spring, and cauliflower with shells the following winter, and now I make those yearly. In a couple of months it will be time to make the eggplant pasta again. I’m slowly building my kitchen’s repertoire and how I celebrate the seasons. Now, “celebrate the seasons” sounds like part of the subtitle of a buzzy cookbook, overused and therefore meaningless. But literally, it’s the most meaningful.  Olivia’s just starting to eat, but I wonder if she will love these foods, patterns, and celebrations too.

Last weekend I made Sarah DiGregorio’s white bean primavera, her version of pasta primavera in which the noodles are subbed for cannellini beans. It was so good! I loved the combination of abundant vegetables and beans in a slightly creamy, slightly lemony, slightly spicy sauce. I’ll be making this yearly. And I’d also love to try swapping the beans with farfalle for my new seasonal pasta.

WHITE BEAN PRIMAVERA, inspired by Sara DiGregorio

You’ll need:
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
1 medium to large zucchini, quartered lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch thick pieces
8 oz asparagus (about half of a bunch) cut into 1-inch pieces
2 medium carrots, peeled, then shaved into strips with a peeler
1/2 of a small onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup frozen peas
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp dried oregano
3 cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1/2 to 3/4 cup heavy cream
1 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 cup grated parmesan
1 tbsp dijon mustard
Salt and pepper
Herbs, for garnish (optional)

Add the butter and olive oil to your largest skillet over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the zucchini plus 1 tsp of salt, and stir, then cook undisturbed until the zucchini starts to golden, about 4 minutes. Add the asparagus, carrots, and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the peas and another 1/2 tsp of salt. Add the red pepper flakes, oregano, and a generous amount of black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the peas are warmed through and bright green, about 2 minutes.

Add the white beans and cream (starting with about 1/2 cup and adding more if necessary to coat everything well), and let the cream come to a simmer. Simmer for about 1 minute.

Turn off the heat and stir in the lemon juice, parmesan, and dijon mustard. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Top with chopped fresh herbs if desired.

Picnic Pals

It’s been a slow start to spring. It snowed Jeff’s birthday weekend, when he usually goes golfing. Then the next weekend we had back-to-back 80-degree days, though since our maple trees have no leaf growth yet the sun pounded on the brick and warmed our house like it was mid-August. Last Sunday morning Jeff and I planted some herbs, and then at night we brought the pots into the kitchen so they would miss the overnight freezes this week. Sometimes on our daily walks we dress Olivia in a short sleeve t-shirt, sometimes she wears her down snowsuit. Soon, we keep telling ourselves, it will be spring for real, and we’ll eat on the patio every night. In the meantime, we’ll just grill when we can.

Scott and Karen visited during that recent summer-like weekend, and while Olivia sat content in Uncle Scott’s lap, Jeff grilled the best version of our lamb burgers we’ve ever made. Oh my goodness they were so good. We all wished I hadn’t frozen the extra meat so we could double up on the patties. They were incredible!

The companion piece to lamb burgers is a Greek-style orzo salad, I believe. Don’t they just seem like picnic pals? I’ve tried several versions, but never one I actually liked until this past weekend. The keys, I think, are an extra-zingy Greek dressing, and to not overdo it with the orzo. I like how Jeanine took her standard Greek salad dressing and added extra red wine vinegar and lemon juice, which I learned is necessary to stand up to the pasta. She also calls for a specific amount of orzo that is less than a standard pasta box. Don’t be tempted to pour the remainder in, like I’ve probably done every time before. With a hefty amount of the usual Greek salad ingredients (tomato, cucumber, red onion, feta) and some optional extras like chickpeas, black olives, and golden beets (golden only so the purple ones don’t stain the entire dish), this salad is ready for its permanent place at my table.

Though I will say, the other night while flipping through Mighty Salads and Salad for Dinner (a subject with which I am currently obsessed*) I came across a lemony-dill orzo variety that sounds equally good. I might have to try it next to the lamb burger patties in my freezer, perhaps this weekend.

*I am also looking to acquire Saladish, Salad for President, and Salad Freak.

GREEK ORZO PASTA SALAD, inspired by Love and Lemons

You’ll need:
1-1/2 cups dry orzo pasta
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tsp oregano
1/4 tsp Dijon mustard
2 cups cherry tomatoes, quartered
2 Persian cucumbers, halved vertically and sliced about 1/4 inch thick
3/4 cup feta
1/3 cup red onion, thinly sliced
1 cup fresh basil and/or mint
1 can chickpeas, rinsed and drained (optional)
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped (optional)
1-2 golden beets, cooked and chopped (to match the size of the tomatoes) (optional)
Salt and Pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and prepare the orzo according to package directions. Drain and toss with a little olive oil, so as not to stick. Spread onto a baking sheet to cool quickly.

To prepare the dressing, whisk together the olive oil, red wine vinegar, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, mustard, 1/2 tsp of salt, and several grinds of freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.

To a large bowl, add the cooked orzo, tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, red onion, chickpeas if using, olives if using, and beets if using, and stir together. Pour the dressing over the salad, and toss again. Add the herbs and toss again.

Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate before serving.

The Best Chicken, The Best Tacos

Newsletters are the new blogs – actually, they have been for a few years – and I briefly considered turning this website into one. But the truth is I write this for me, and maybe Olivia, and the handy index that guides me to my family’s favorite recipes in one click. I don’t want to reference my repertoire in email form, and I’m happy with my loyal following of quantity 4.

But all my favorite writers have made the leap. Molly Wizenberg. Jenny Rosenstrach. Alison Roman. Edan Lepucki. Luisa Weiss. And so many more. There’s no way I can keep up. Like with blogs beforehand, I follow and unfollow based on time and interest. Most cost $5/month to enjoy full content, and I think it’s a great way for writers to get paid without advertising. If I had a following, I would for sure want to make money this way.

New to the newsletter game last month is one of my favorite food writers – Julia Turshen! – who I have written about on this site many times. I signed up immediately. In her inaugural issue she shared some behind-the-scenes process of cookbook writing, specifically what she thinks about when deciding whether or not to include a photo of a recipe (because even she, Julia Turshen, and her publishers can’t afford to include photography for all).

She then directed us to one of her favorite recipes from Simply Julia, green chile braised chicken thighs, which she feared few of us were making due to a lack of photographic inspiration. She encouraged us all to give it a try with the note that now she “can do what I’ve always dreamed of doing, which is to write directly to other home cooks without anyone in between us.”

Keep it coming, Julia, because I made this dish last night, and it was incredible. I’ve been looking for a go-to braised chicken recipe, and this could not be easier. Brown chicken thighs; add a can of pinto beans, diced tomatoes with green chile, and some spices; simmer for one hour until the chicken is pull-apart tender. We used the results as filling for tacos, so I can claim this as both the best chicken* and the best tacos I’ve ever made at home. Even Jeff, who isn’t necessarily a spicy / chicken / taco fan, thought these were great. Whew! I can’t wait to make these again!

*stiff competition here

GREEN CHILE BRAISED CHICKEN THIGHS, from Julia Turshen

You’ll need:
2 tbsp olive oil
1 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 can pinto beans
1 can diced tomatoes with green chiles (RoTel)
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp red chile powder
Juice of 1 lime
Salt
Cilantro (optional)
Tortillas (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the chicken thighs with salt. When the oil is hot add the chicken thighs to the pot (in batches if necessary) and brown on both sides, about 4-5 minutes per side. When finished browning on the second side, add the pinto beans (no need to drain the can), tomatoes, cumin, chile powder, and a large pinch of salt to the pot, and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer until the chicken is pull-apart tender, about 1 hour. Turn off the heat and use 2 forks to shred the chicken. Let cool slightly, then stir in the lime juice and sprinkle with cilantro. Fold into tortillas for tacos.

1/3 of a Drink

I was out to breakfast with my sister about a month ago and she asked what I imagine is a very common question to a first-time mom. So are you tired, like, all the time now?

Lucky for us, Olivia has been an incredible sleeper, going overnight for eight hours starting around two months of age, and now sleeping about 12 hours per night. Our doctor jokes that we should not share this information with other new parents. So my answer to my sister was no, with an explanation of all of the above.

But if I put more thought into it I would have told her about the other kind of fatigue, that which comes with a 7am wakeup call and doesn’t let up until 7pm. Feed the baby, play with the baby, feed the baby, bathe the baby, put baby down to nap, wash the bottles, empty the dishwasher, clean the kitchen, start laundry, attempt to exercise, take a shower, eat lunch, make food for baby, clean the kitchen, feed the baby, play with the baby, feed the baby, family walk, play with the baby, feed the baby, put baby down for second nap and hope she takes it, start dinner, baby’s up!, feed the baby, hand baby off to husband, finish dinner, play with the baby while eating dinner, clean the kitchen, feed the baby, give baby 100 kisses, say goodnight to baby, and finally… sit on the couch, watch Below Deck with husband, go to bed at 9pm. I’m well-rested, but it’s exhausting.

It’s also the most fun, though, because Olivia has taught herself how to give kisses and will kiss our cheeks on command! Her baby babble gets louder and cuter every day. Mem-mem-mem-mem, ny-ny-ny, da-DAAAA! It can also sometimes be adorably whispered. Sometimes when she wakes up she has a handprint on her face! When she swallows a new food sometimes she squints her eyes, or when she screams really loud sometimes she squints her eyes. Her biggest smiles come with a nose scrunch. She’s always looking out the window for our neighbors’ dog, or a bird, or a squirrel, and her staring once alerted us to a squirrel in the bird feeder. How interesting!, she must have been thinking. She has started to bop her head, with or without music, her first dance move. Sometimes about 30 minutes after we put her to bed for the night one of us will say, I miss her, let’s go get her. And she’s started a new thing when she wakes up, which is to just sit quietly in her crib. No whining to alert us that she’s awake, she knows we’ll see her and come get her. When we open her door to do so, the light streaming in from the hallway makes her blink repeatedly, and it is the cutest.

The easiest way for me to recognize this new type of fatigue is to pour myself an alcoholic beverage. Two sips and it goes straight to my head. More than one glass leads to a certain hangover. My running joke is, Should I have 1/3 of a beer tonight? Cocktail night is now a cautious adventure. That being said, I’ve found two new favorites.

I first went through a gimlet phase in 2009, inspired by Julie Powell (of Julie and Julia), who wrote of frequent gimlets in her memoir. After a long work day I’d sip a version of either gin or vodka mixed with Rose’s lime juice from the balcony of my Chicago high rise. This new version, which I actually got from the website of designer and career idol Erin Gates, calls for the addition of basil simple syrup. It’s bright and summery and perfect for the patio.

Next up, I learned of the sidecar cocktail from an episode of Giada’s Weekend Getaways, a show from all the way back in 2007 that randomly appeared in my TV lineup a few weeks ago. It was filmed while I lived in Chicago, so naturally I chose to watch the windy city episode. Giada went to brunch at Orange, which inspired me to nostalgically order a bag of their orange-infused coffee shipped to my doorstep. (It’s good, but not as good as brunch with girlfriends.) But the night before, Giada ordered a sidecar martini at the top of the Hancock building, so I tried one a few days later. It’s a simple mix of cognac, cointreau, and lemon juice, also bright, also perfect for summer patios. It’s sort of on the line between masculine and feminine – it’s not a manhattan, but it’s not a cosmopolitan either – and I like that.

So who wants to come over for 1/3 of a drink?

BASIL GIMLET

To make the basil simple syrup, bring 3/4 cup of water to a boil. Add 1/2 cup of sugar and simmer until sugar melts. Remove from the heat. Add about 8 basil leaves and let cool to room temperature. Store in the refrigerator.

To make the basil gimlet, in a shaker with ice add 3 oz of vodka, 1 tbsp of simple syrup, and 1/4 cup of fresh squeezed lime juice. Shake for about 20 seconds, then pour into a chilled glass.

SIDECAR COCKTAIL

In a shaker with ice add 1-1/2 oz cognac, 3/4 oz cointreau, and 3/4 oz fresh squeezed lemon juice. Shake for about 20 seconds, then pour into a chilled glass (optionally with sugar rim).

Macaroni & Cheese

Most years, St. Patrick’s Day is the first day I can really remember being outside, and surrounded by others doing the same. Must be the luck of the Irish, but I mostly remember good weather on the March 17ths of my life. Like many others, I could spend these days with Solo cups filled (and refilled) with green beer in a tent set up for overflow bar seating, but in the post-daylight savings sun and among the chirps of early migration, there’s plenty else to do. I’ve accidentally made a long run my St. Patrick’s Day tradition.

It started in 2008, when I abruptly quit my job midday and needed somewhere to put my nervous energy. That day the sky was bright blue and few ice patches remained, so I laced up my sneakers and ran down the Chicago lakeshore all the way to the green river, wearing a Notre Dame Fighting Irish t-shirt, waving at the party-bus passerby. Then I headed back up and logged several miles not usually in my ability, especially for my first seasonal outdoor run.

A few years ago, on a similarly bluebird St. Patrick’s Day, when Jeff happened to be out of town, I channeled that youthful spirit and ran to the other side of our neighborhood, then across the busy street and all through the next neighborhood over, then around a tour of our small downtown, and back. There’s something about the way an early spring day ignites a challenge, after months inside from cold and snow, on a celebratory holiday. It makes me want to move!

Last year would have been another perfect day for a run, but I was not the type of six months pregnant person to do so. (Though I did carry myself into an Irish pub to pick up the corned beef that we later ate on our patio). This year, blessed by Mother Nature again, while Olivia napped and Jeff set out the garden hose and cleaned up some of the planters, I ran to the library and back. And then when Olivia woke up, together we walked to the library and back (this time, with the books I needed to return in the bottom of her stroller).

A few days prior we had picked up Panera for an easy dinner, and while ordering I was reminded of one of my few pregnancy cravings, broccoli mac and cheese. Early in pregnancy I think I ordered a side with my work lunch every day for two weeks. As Jeff and I passed the cup back and forth, I said: Wanna make this on Thursday? It’s green. We looked forward to it all week, and, again, ate on the patio. I now declare this dish a new St. Patrick’s Day tradition. Move over, corned beef and cabbage.

Now, while on the topic of macaroni and cheese, I would be remiss to exclude my other favorite version, that from Zingerman’s Roadhouse. Like everything Zingerman’s does, it is top notch, made with dried noodles from Italy and handmade cheddar from Vermont. That is great and all, but the best part is the skillet finish to brown the cheese. You should for sure go to the restaurant and order a plate, but lucky for us home cooks the recipe has been published. This is a great dish to make on December 26th (as I once did), if you are still up for indulgence but not wanting Christmas leftovers.

Hoping these are some Olivia’s favorite dishes one day!

BROCCOLI MAC & CHEESE, inspired by Damn Delicious

You’ll need:
8 oz medium pasta shells
2 tbsp butter
1 shallot, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp flour
1-1/4 cups whole milk
1 cup half and half
1 tsp Dijon mustard
6 oz sharp cheddar, grated
3-4 cups chopped broccoli florets
Salt and pepper

This recipe moves pretty quickly, so have everything ready. (You don’t want to rush grating your cheese, and also grate some of the plastic wrap like somebody.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and cook pasta according to package directions.

Start the cheese sauce as you wait for the water to boil (again, it moves quickly). Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the flour and whisk until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Add the milk, half and half, and mustard, and whisk until slightly thickened, about 3-4 minutes. The consistency should be just slightly runnier than what you expect for a creamy cheese sauce. Add the cheese and stir to melt. Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and keep warm. 

Ideally at this time the pasta should be finishing. Use a sieve to drain the noodles and add them directly to the cheese sauce.

Keep the water boiling and add the broccoli florets. Cook for about 4 minutes, until they are bright green and slightly softened. Turn off the heat and use the sieve to drain the broccoli and add to the pasta and cheese. Stir to combine everything.

Serve immediately.

ZINGERMAN’S MAC & CHEESE

You’ll need:
1 lb macaroni
2 tbsp butter
1/4 onion, diced
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp flour
1-1/2 cups whole milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 lb grated cheddar
2 tsp olive oil
Coarse sea salt

Note: In this case I do recommend you get your macaroni from Italy and your cheddar from Vermont, via Zingerman’s.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, make the sauce. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onion and bay leaf and cook until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Add the flour and cook about 1 minute, stirring constantly. Slowly add the milk, a little at a time, stirring constantly to avoid lumping. When the flour and milk have been completely combined, add the cream. Gently simmer until slightly thickened, about 2-3 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Stir in the mustard, cheddar, and salt to taste, and simmer for 5 minutes. Set aside.

Over medium-high heat, get a heavy bottomed skillet very hot. Heat the olive oil, then add the cheese sauce and pasta and toss thoroughly. Cook, continuing to stir, until about 15 percent of the mixture is golden brown and crispy.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. Remove from heat. Serve immediately.

Tous les chemins mènent à Rome

There’s a saying in French — Tous les chemins mènent à Rome. This is a saying in English too — All roads lead to Rome — but of course the French is far more beautiful. I came across the expression in my new book on classic French pastry, which I bought the week after Thanksgiving with the intention to come to a greater understanding of French tart dough, in the hopes that its similarities and differences will teach me more about American pie dough.

As I flip through the pages of millefeuille and croquembouche and gâteau St. Honoré, a further consequence emerges. My dormant Francophilia has come alive. I dream of waking up at Le Meurice, un croissant au petit déjeuner, and a morning stroll through le Jardin des Tuileries. Then an afternoon at the Louvre followed by l’apéro at a sidewalk bistro before walking to dinner. I hear L’Ambroisie is nice. I’d wear a new dress from Sézane, and afterwards we’d take in the city lights from the bank of the Seine. Consider this the plan for my 40th birthday, Jeff.

I studied French in high school, but to me it was just another class. My teacher was obsessed with all things la Tour Eiffel, but I just wanted to know what I needed to memorize in order to ace the test. In college I rebelled and enrolled in Spanish classes, though I did take two trips to France at that time. First to Angers (the home of Cointreau) to visit a friend studying abroad, and another to Paris and beyond with that same high school teacher. I was completely in awe of the beauty of the country, the architecture and landscape in particular. But I was also a tourist acting like a tourist – cramming an agenda of museums and cathedrals, bus tours and long lines, all with jet lag – and it’s hard to be enamored by a culture when you’re just plain fatiguée.

But sometime after graduation I watched Être et Avoir, a beyond charming documentary about an ordinary one-room schoolhouse in a small French village, and the intimate relationship between the teacher, his students, and their families. I also began working at a textiles showroom, and studying the artistry of fabric design. Many of the mills we worked with were located in France, and early that summer I heard one of my coworkers say that our customers better get their orders in, because the French shut down for August and they won’t care if our American sofas need reupholstering at that time. Huh… so the whole nation will be at their country homes enjoying the sun and the smell of lavender, drinking wine and eating soft cheeses, reading literature on blankets in the grass? Ok, I can get behind this. Suddenly it was my plan to move to France for a year, and I started researching programs to teach English.

It didn’t happen, because I got interested in other things, as is often the case when you’re 23. But every once in a while, when I brush up against it, the French culture pulls at my heartstrings, and I wonder how I can buy a pied-a-terre in Paris. Like when Jeff takes me to Margaux for our anniversary, or makes boeuf Bourguignon for Valentine’s Day. When I read the estate names on the bottles of red at our local wine shop. When I re-watch Être et Avoir, as I did last night. When I simply hear the word Chamonix. When the camera pans to overhead views of the countryside every summer during the le Tour de France. When I say, “let’s go to Montreal soon,” so we can save our money for Paris later. Again, how can I buy a pied-a-terre?

But back to that French expression — Tous les chemins mènent à Rome. As the internet will tell you, there are millions of claims for the “best chocolate chip cookies.” In fact I tried most of them in the weeks surrounding Olivia’s birth. Particulars aside, I believe no matter the method you choose, in the end you’re still eating chocolate chip cookies, and that’s pretty great. From our repertoire I prefer the whole wheat variety, whereas Jeff likes the enormous ones he discovered during quarantine. These from Tara O’Brady are our new favorite, a perfect, meet-in-the middle, soft and chewy option that’s easy to make, perfect for freezer-stashing, and a joy to discover there. Meet our new Everyday Chocolate Chip Cookies. Shoutout to the call for melted butter, because nothing negates an “everyday” cookie recipe like the need for room temperature butter. Do not omit the sprinkle of flaky sea salt, and please, use fleur de sel.

Now excuse me, I plan to spend the remainder of the afternoon virtually perusing the Musée d’Orsay and memorizing the arrondissements while the coq au vin stews.

EVERYDAY CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES, inspired by Tara O’Brady

You’ll need:
1 cup unsalted butter, chopped
3-1/4 cups flour
1-1/4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1-1/2 tsp kosher salt
1-1/2 cups brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
12 oz semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped (or chocolate chips)
Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling

Heat oven to 360. (Yes, 360, I appreciate the research Tara must have done to call for that.) Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a medium saucepan over the very lowest heat, melt the butter. Stir regularly until the butter is almost entirely melted, then remove from heat and set aside. (The specificity here is to not lose moisture.)

In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

Pour the melted butter into a large bowl and whisk in the sugars. Add the eggs one at a time, and whisk to just combine. Add the vanilla and stir to combine. Add the dry ingredients and use a strong spatula to stir to combine. When it is mostly blended, fold the chocolate into the dough. Take care to fully incorporate all ingredients without overmixing. Refrigerate the dough for 5 minutes.

Scoop the dough into portions of 3 tbsp and roll into balls. Set on the prepared pans, leaving 3 inches between each. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Bake until the tops are cracked and slightly golden, and the centers remain soft, about 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through.

Repeat with the remainder of the dough, or better yet, form into dough balls and freeze for later use. Your future self will thank you.

Not Done With You Yet, Pumpkin

I only make pie during the holiday season, but that still means I’ve tried a lot of crust recipes over the years. The first came from Zingerman’s Bakehouse, when I took their BAKE! class back in 2011. I was such an amateur baker back then that I didn’t notice anything about their technique, for I had nothing to compare it to. Since then I’ve tried dough from Erin Jeanne McDowell, Rose Levy Berenbaum, Stella Parks, Sister Pie, Petee’s Pie, and probably more. Though there is certainly variation, each recipe generally calls for the same basic principles — 1) keep your ingredients cold, and 2) let butter bits remain. Keeping both of these intact will in theory produce a flaky crust; when the cold butter hits the hot oven it will release steam and — poof — create air pockets that cause the crust to flake.

Sometimes I’ve made great pies with excellent crusts. Sometimes I’ve balked at the mediocrity of my bakes (though as my husband points out, I’m the only one who is critical). This year was one such mediocre year. I made three pies for Thanksgiving at my brother’s house, but to get there I had to make at least six dough disks, maybe seven, I lost count. I partly blame my schedule, or lack thereof. Pie dough requires time, attention, and care. Maybe I tried to squeeze in my prep while the baby napped and I had laundry going and the bottles needed to be washed. Maybe I was rushing.

But I also think I wasn’t following the instruction I understood best. For the last dough recipe I tried, on Wednesday afternoon — my sixth, or seventh, the hail mary dough — I pulled out the Zingerman’s Bakehouse cookbook. Their recipe called for something different from all of the above. Instead of adding all of the butter to the flour at once, it instructs to first add three-quarters of it and incorporate to a crumbly cornmeal texture, then add the remaining quarter and continue to process until that last bit is pea-sized. The first round allows for a short (aka tender) crust, the second brings the flakes.

To me, this makes perfect sense! Previously I’ve been so concerned about butter bits that I don’t think I was breaking the butter down enough, so it wasn’t well-incorporated into the flour, and the flour was dry, so I either added more water unnecessarily, or I stubbornly did not add more water and dealt with dry and cracking dough. I would get my beloved flakes, but a tough crust along with them. No other recipe actually encouraged me to mix and crumble more, and the divided process made it easy to understand why. I understand the need to move fast, and of course less time working with the dough means you work faster, or at least that the process takes less time. But I think, if you take advantage of a refrigerator to cool and rest properly, then you can spend more time up front, and yield a better bake. I get it now.

Now, did this result in the best crust I’ve ever made? I’m not sure. I was still rushing. See above regarding my start on Wednesday afternoon before Thanksgiving, plus I had laundry going and the bottles needed to be washed. But I will be going back to this recipe. In a full-circle moment, I ended with the recipe I started with in 2011.

All this to say that I’m eager to learn more. I’ll come up with an excuse to bake a pie soon. But I’m also suddenly curious to take it even further. I hear the contestants on The Great British Baking Show using the terms pastry dough and shortcrust pastry and pâte sucrée and pâte brisée for what I think looks like pie dough. Are those interchangeable? Are some of them? What are the differences? And so begins my course of study on classic French pastry. I bought a book.

But back to our Thanksgiving pies. They were truly great! We made Dutch apple (my mom’s favorite), bourbon pecan (Jeff’s choice), and pumpkin (my sister-in-law and the host’s request). My favorite was the pumpkin, which is not something I ever would have loved growing up. Squash-related dishes have only skyrocketed to the top of my list since knowing Jeff, lover of orange vegetables. I’m clearly not giving up on crust, but the pumpkin pie was so tasty that I thought, what if I made a dessert that was all filling? A pumpkin pie without the pie.

I consulted Alice Medrich’s recipe for pumpkin pudding, which I remembered from an old episode of In the Kitchen with Amelia and Teddy, but ultimately went back to the Petee’s Pie recipe I used on Thanksgiving day. It calls for the use of an actual pie pumpkin, of which we had several from our CSA (though you could also use butternut or honeynut or another squash, which I’d love to try). I believe it is more fun to use local produce than it is to open a can, and the holidays are all about fun. That said, don’t wedge this dessert into just the last week of November; pumpkin pudding and its warming spices could be an all-winter treat!

PUMPKIN PUDDING, inspired by Petee’s Pie

You’ll need:
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/4 tsp ground allspice
3 cups pumpkin (or other winter squash), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 1 medium pie pumpkin)
2/3 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup whole milk
1 tsp molasses
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
Whipped cream for serving (optional)

Heat oven to 350.

In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, salt, and spices. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the pumpkin, heavy cream, and milk. Cover and heat until the liquid just starts to bubble, then remove the lid and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the pumpkin is easily mashable, about 30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes to prevent burning.

When the pumpkin is soft, add the sugar-spice mixture and molasses, and cook for about another minute, until fragrant. Remove from the heat and let cool just slightly, then transfer the mixture to a blender and process until smooth. Pour into a large bowl.

Meanwhile, in another bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg yolks. Add a couple of spoonfuls of the pumpkin puree to the eggs and quickly stir to combine (this is to temper the eggs). Then pour the entire egg mixture into the pumpkin puree, and stir to combine.

Pour into a 9-inch pie dish. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until the center of the pudding is ever so slightly jiggly. Transfer to a cooling rack and allow to cool for at least 30 minutes. This is delicious served warm, or completely cooled and refrigerated, with or without whipped cream.

Jess's New Lunch

I’ve been reading a lot of childrens’ books lately, and much like a Taylor Swift song, the catchiest ones get stuck in your head.

As I unpack groceries: Chicka chicka boom boom, will there be enough room?

While exercising: Silly Sally went to town, walking backwards, upside down.

And washing bottles: Trainberry, trackberry, pick me a blackberry.

I think I’d like to write one! I’ll title it Jess’s New Lunch. At least that’s what I’ve been calling this new-to-me dish, and doesn’t it just sound like the name of a childrens’ book? Here’s how it would go:

Easy peasy at the fridge
Greens and garlic, just a smidge
Ginger, hot sauce, for some heat
Fry an egg, it’s time to eat!

Now if that doesn’t make kids want to try their leafy greens, I don’t know what will!

This recipe came to me via our CSA’s website via the pac choi index. I hesitate to even call my version a recipe, as it’s really a methodology, and I never measure. But it’s my current favorite way to eat greens, and you know I love greens [Exhibits A, B, C]. Served with microwaved rice (my favorite) and an egg (usually hard-boiled, from the fridget), it’s simply perfect!

JESS’S NEW LUNCH

Heat a tablespoon or so of canola oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Grate a clove of garlic and about a teaspoon of fresh ginger over the pan and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add chopped greens (kale, chard, spinach, etc.) and cook until wilted. Remove from heat.

Meanwhile, pop a bag of 90-second rice into the microwave. Peel and slice a hard-boiled egg (or, fry an egg in a separate pan).

Add the rice, greens, and sliced egg to a bowl in that order.  Top with a squeeze or two of sriracha and salt and pepper (mostly over the egg).  

Mom, Will You Make Me My Pasta?

Isn’t it crazy how there can be a million days in a row when nothing happens, and then you have a day like, BOOM, it hits you all at once.

It was a Friday, thirteen months ago, after a million days in a row of quarantine nothing. Jeff and I were laying on the couch, exhausted. I’d had plans to drink champagne outside with a girlfriend that night, probably one of the last warm nights of the year, but I skipped. Instead, we closed the shades and settled in for a new episode of The Great British Baking Show, hopeful our eyes would stay open for its entirety. Minutes before we were on a group FaceTime call with my family, and I already had a headache, so the shouting across time zones, shaky phone cameras, and repetition was nearly enough to put this introvert to bed.

I’d recently been on the hunt for some new-to-me fall pastas, and dinner was the simplest of the recipes I’d pulled — pasta con ceci. (I am proud to use the Italian word for chickpeas ever since Jeff taught me the translation in the first few weeks of our dating.) On the side were slices of toast and some smoked salmon, and we ate it all on camera for the family. There was no time beforehand, as Jeff was beginning to set up for Saturday morning’s start to our DIY backyard patio installation. Nine pallets of bricks had been delivered to our driveway that afternoon, and a small mountain of slag sand in the morning, the result of months of planning. And, despite the scheduled drop-offs, Jeff refused to give up on Tucker’s traditional Friday visit and their usual 3+ mile walk to the park to chase tennis balls. Not to mention we each worked eight hours that day.

Plus, that morning we were up unusually early. I heard Jeff moving around, then saw the glow from his phone.  Watcha readin’? That’s when I learned that both Trump and the first lady had tested positive for covid, which led to our millionth conversation about strange times, speculation about the election, and other topics highly specific to the October 2020 political climate, topics not usually fit for 5:30am. We were up for good, and so I got out of bed.

Five minutes later I jumped back into bed. Jeff was still reading, but he needed to know what I had to share. Because we started this incredibly busy day in the most exciting and eventful way I can imagine. We learned that a little baby would soon be joining our family! The best news! The best day!

All day at work I thought about it, until it would momentarily pass my mind. Then it’d slip back in and I’d smile, send Jeff a text, “can’t believe it!” And same for him, in between signing for deliveries and responding to email and walking the dog.

Of course I cancelled my champagne plans that night. The smoked salmon was just for Jeff. My headache was due to an abrupt withdrawal of caffeine. And the pasta I really wanted to make — penne with vodka sauce — would be deferred.

Isn’t it crazy how there can be a million days in a row when nothing happens, and then you have a day like, BOOM, it hits you all at once.

The pasta recipe I followed was not this one. This one is much better, thanks to a deeply flavored base of garlic and tomato paste fried in olive oil. Just add ditalini and chickpeas, and this is my new favorite dinner to make entirely from pantry ingredients. It could not be easier, in fact I recently made this after returning home from a 13-hour day.

The simplicity lends a childlike quality to the dish, appropriately so given the news we learned that day. In a way it’s like an elevated version of SpaghettiOs, and I love that. Though it also reminds me of an elegant, rustic pasta en brodo. It’s food for the whole family. I imagine Olivia will like it one day, maybe it will be her favorite food, and I can almost hear her asking now in her cute little kindergarten voice: Mom, will you make me my pasta?

PASTA CON CECI, inspired by Victoria Granof via Jenny Rosenstrach

You’ll need:
4 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
6 tbsp good tomato paste
1 tsp salt
2 cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 cup uncooked ditalini pasta
4 cups hot water
Crushed red pepper flakes, for serving (optional)
Grated parmesan, for serving (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a large pot (I use a Dutch oven) over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until it becomes very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and salt and cook for another 1-2 minutes, using a spatula to stir in and break up the tomato paste. Add the chickpeas, pasta, and water, and turn the heat to high to bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally to ensure the pasta does not stick to the bottom of the pot, until the pasta is cooked and most (though not all) of the liquid has been absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Ladle into bowls and top with red pepper flakes and parmesan to taste.

I Am Always The Hostess

We’ve never hosted Thanksgiving, but I hope to do so one day. I love everything about the idea: the recipe selection, the shopping, ordering the turkey, the table decor, the writing of a schedule, hosting my family, baking pies, baking rolls, a champagne toast, even the endless cycle of dirty dishes that comes with the rest. It’s kind of my dream scenario. Like Monica from Friends: I am always the hostess.

To start, I’ll set out a selection of sliced cheeses and a bowl of chex mix, while I mix champagne cocktails with Black Star Farms' Bubbly Nouveau. The pies — Dutch apple and classic pumpkin — will have been baked the day before and displayed on stands on the countertop. The rolls will be homemade and done too. And call me crazy, but I love the idea of Ina Garten’s make-ahead-turkey, which is roasted and carved the day before, then arranged on an oven-proof platter with gravy, and simply warmed before dinnertime. That will reserve our single oven for the sides — a standalone stuffing and creamed spinach. On the stovetop I’ll do smoked brown sugar carrots*, and my dad will make his family-famous mashed potatoes. There will be two cranberry sauces — one savory and cooked, another citrusy and fresh — and a kale salad with Michigan dried cherries, to lighten everything else. Finally, Jeff will be outside grilling the best onion salad I’ve ever had.

It’s also, I think, the only onion salad I’ve ever had, but it doesn’t lose points for that. Jeff happened to watch the Food52 Genius Recipe video on the last warm day of the season, then added onions to the grill next to our burgers that night. Kristen says this recipe, from Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich (whose book I need to  check out), is perfect for that exact situation: “I’ve got the grill going, what else can I throw on here?” The finished dish includes a simple dressing with grill-toasted walnuts and fresh herbs poured into the cups of the onion layers, and is, as Kristen also says, “the prettiest salad I’ve ever seen.”

For my imaginary future Thanksgiving, I just have to decide if this should go with the cheese and champagne course, or as a second salad with the full meal.

*Sidenote: When Jeff and I first started dating, we made these smoked brown sugar carrots all the time. Random, I know, but Giada’s Happy Cooking had just come out and we flipped through it together. I picked up smoked brown sugar at Sur La Table after work one day, and it just became a repeat weeknight side. Six years later it’s a nostalgic dish for me. And it was part of our “sides only” Quarantine Thanksgiving 2020. Recipe below.

WHOLE GRILLED ONION SALAD, from Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich, via Food52

For the onions, you’ll need:
4 whole red onions
Olive oil
Flaky sea salt

For the dressing, you’ll need:
2/3 cup walnuts
10 sage leaves, cut into thin strips (or another herb, we had dill so that’s what we used)
1 tbsp honey
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp boiling water
1 tsp mild chile flakes (we omitted)
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
Pepper
A few sprigs of mint (we didn’t have, so we omitted)

Halve the red onions through the core, with the skin on, and brush the open faces with olive oil. Place cut side down over hot heat on a grill. Leave for about 12 minutes, until the cut side is black and charred. Flip and cook for about another 5 minutes. The onions should be cooked through, but still maintain some crunch. (Insert a knife to test.) Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Meanwhile, make the dressing. Toast the walnuts in a cast iron skillet on the grill, for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Slightly crush the walnuts. Mix together all of the dressing ingredients, except for the mint.

When the onions are cool enough to work with, discard the skin and break off the petals of the halves, forming onion cups. Arrange on a serving platter. Drizzle the dressing all over onions and into the cups. Finish with the mint and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt.

SMOKED BROWN SUGAR CARROTS, inspired by Giada de Laurentiis

You’ll need:
2 pounds of carrots (say, approximately 10-12 medium-large carrots), cleaned and sliced diagonally into coins
1/4 cup smoked brown sugar (available here)
1/2 tsp kosher salt

Place the carrots in a large pan with the sugar, salt, and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until the liquid has thickened to a syrup and the carrots are cooked through, about 12 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, then toss the carrots to ensure they are coated in the syrup, and serve.

An Acknowledgement of Vastness

Olivia and I spend a good third of her waking hours in the rocking chair in her room. It’s where I feed her, and after feeding where she looks around and stares at the doorknobs on her closet behind the chair, the air return vent directly ahead at ceiling height, the lit-up red zero on the carbon monoxide detector she can see if she turns her head all the way to her right, and my water bottle on the chest of drawers in between the rocking chair and her crib. It’s where she blasts off my lap and screams at the purple polka dot quilt I keep on the back of the chair, the quilt I bought the week we found out we were having a girl, as inspiration for the color scheme of her room. And where she smiles and grabs at the animal and alphabet patterns on the hand-me-down burp cloths that are always over my shoulder.

When she was a newborn we spent even more time in that chair, because feeding her took even longer. Sometimes, though, I needed a change of scenery. We would walk down the hall to the sofa in my office, and if I arranged the pillows just so I could get comfortable enough to lay her back without pointing her face directly at the TV, and I could catch up on food videos.

First I watched all of Alison Roman’s Home Movies series on YouTube. Alison spent a few years as food media’s “it girl” and I never got on board, partly because I don’t trust hype. Then she made some insensitive comments about Chrissy Teigen and other minority figures in the space, which coincided with overdue criticism about the sometimes appropriation in her recipes, and she left the New York Times. Maybe I circled back because I don’t believe in cancel culture, but I find her videos to be both charming and informed, and I get it now. She always has a reason behind her process — use jumbo shells instead of linguine with shrimp scampi for a more consistently sized dish, after roasting short ribs (and potatoes) in a covered dutch oven for hours, place them back into the oven uncovered to crisp the tops, etc. — and I’ve learned a lot just by watching.

I haven’t tried her recipes, but I did borrow both of her books from the library. Olivia came with me to pick them up, partly so I could introduce her to what I hope will be her favorite community space, but mostly so I could practice getting my 7-week-old in and out of the carseat, the carseat in and out of the car, and driving solo with said baby. She only cried at checkout and then all the way to our next destination — not bad!

Then I fell down the Claire Saffitz x Dessert Person rabbit hole. In this YouTube series, Claire bakes through her book of the same name. Some consider it “the baking book” of last year, and once again I never got on board. The malted chocolate “Forever Brownies” sounded amazing, but the recipe was all over the internet and that was enough exposure for me.

But again, when I finally immersed myself in her work, I was similarly impressed. (This is not a lesson on judgment, more of an acknowledgement of vastness). Claire’s recipes are creative and purposeful. I learned to candy nuts in a cast iron skillet by first melting the thinnest layer of sugar, then adding the nuts, then stirring and periodically add a little more sugar, so the nuts toast and candy at the same time. She shows a smart method for pressing tart dough into a pan by first cutting the chilled dough into even strips, then using said strips to create a ring around the side of the pan and an organized layer on the bottom, then finally pressing it together.

Olivia and I also checked out Claire’s book. Maybe I’ll make her chocolate wave cake this holiday season.

Most recently I’ve taken a deep dive into the work of Rick Bayless. This one is vast — 12 seasons of Mexico: One Plate at a Time, half a dozen cookbooks, award-winning restaurants, a web archive of recipes, and so on.

I didn’t know how lucky I had it when I lived in Chicago; I could have gone to Frontera Grill every night. (But I was also 23 with an entry-level salary.) I did go once to Rick’s flagship restaurant, my brother’s choice when he visited. I kind of remember it. It gets foggy because afterwards there was beer and I think vodka, and I know we took a cab to the Ukrainian Village, and the night ended with Norwegian heavy metal music at Scott’s friend’s cousin’s apartment. (See above re: my age). But anyway, I think I tried Frontera’s guacamole and ceviche. Jeff and I haven’t been to Chicago since 2017, and I’m planning a future trip, far into the future, when maybe the grandparents will watch Olivia; we’ll stay two nights so we can have dinner at both Eataly and Frontera Grill.

I started with the season of Mexico: One Plate at a Time called Bayless’ Best Ever. In each episode Rick takes us on a tour of Mexico City inspired by a classic category of Mexican cuisine (say, enchiladas or chiles rellenos or tostadas or mole), then shares a lesson for preparing these foods from his home kitchen. It’s great work, but as the credits roll he also presents a quick recipe shot in the overhead style of a YouTube video, and secretly this is my favorite part of each episode. I happened to watch his pico de gallo short the same day that Spilled Milk released an episode on the topic, and I was doubly reminded that it is the easiest, freshest, most delicious salsa to make at home… though I think it’s technically not considered salsa, it’s just pico de gallo.

The marriage of tomato, onion, chile, lime, cilantro, and salt has got to be one of the world’s best flavor combinations. I thought I accidentally threw out my serrano peppers when I went to make pico de gallo at home last week, and I was so upset I almost scratched the whole project, for what is salsa without some heat. After I searched through every plastic bag I had set aside in our plastic bag storage drawer I found them on my second sweep of the refrigerator — thank god, I did not want to return to Kroger for a 17¢ ingredient.

The pico was the best part of the black bean tacos I also made. It was pretty tasty with winter’s imported tomatoes on the vine. I can only imagine how delicious it will be with next summer’s homegrown varieties (and hopefully homegrown peppers too, if I take the advice of my hairdresser who says it’s really easy).

PICO DE GALLO, inspired by Rick Bayless

You’ll need:
1/2 of a small white onion, finely chopped
4 medium plum tomatoes, chopped
2 serrano chiles, finely chopped
1/3 cup cilantro, finely chopped
The juice of 1 lime
Salt, to taste (start with about 1/2 tsp)

Place the chopped onion in a fine mesh sieve and run under water. Set aside while you prep the rest of the ingredients. (This helps to get rid of some of that raw onion bite.) Add all ingredients to a large bowl and stir to combine.

Always Wear Walking Shoes in DC

At the end of 2016, Jeff and I visited Washington, DC, to watch his sister defend her thesis. It was a good time to visit; though Trump had been elected, Obama was still president, and I was still able to get excited about the presidency, the West Wing, and all of American history. Plus, one could imagine a future where Trump surprised us all, hired the right advisors, and actually cared to lead… I mean, it was possible, anyway.

They were starting to build the stands for the inauguration, which we passed on our daily walk from the Embassy Suites to the White House to the National Mall. I cannot wait to walk the mall with Olivia one day, pop into the American history museum to show her the first ladies’ dresses and Julia Child’s kitchen (and, most importantly, teach her how these pioneering women contributed to history). I imagine we’ll have to spend 2+ weeks in town, and our schedules will be packed from sunrise past sunset, because we’ll also want to visit the postal museum and air and space museums (there’s two), stroll through all of the Smithsonian gardens, tour the mint, catch a show at the Kennedy Center, and try every flavor at Georgetown Cupcake. Plus whatever Jeff and Olivia want to do. (I’ll make sure the family has new top-of-the-line walking shoes before we fly out.)

On our first night there in 2016 we ate at a restaurant called District Commons. Two things stand out in my memory. First, the restaurant was sunken from ground level. We sat at a booth by the window and looked out at the feet of passersby on Washington Circle. Kinda cool. The other thing I remember is that Jeff ordered potato leek soup, and he raved about it so much that a few weeks later we recreated the dish for our New Year’s dinner. To this day the District Commons potato leek soup serves as inspiration for all potato leek soups to come from our home kitchen, and we’ve finally found one we love just as much.

Technically Giada calls this a “warm vichyssoise” and I’m not sure why. Vichyssoise is a traditional French soup of puréed potatoes and leeks with cream and chicken stock, served thick and cold. Giada’s does not include cream, is served warm, and adds arugula. So I call our version Potato Leek Arugula Soup. Soup season has only just started, and I think we’ve already made it three times.

Speaking of soup in DC, we took a late flight out so we could enjoy almost a full final day. Jeff made a lunch reservation at the Old Ebbitt Grill, which today is located across from the White House, but has a storied history as “Washington’s Oldest Saloon” dating back to 1856, though it has changed hands and locations a few times. It’s touristy, for sure, and yes we did buy White House stemless wine glasses from the gift shop right next door, but I like to imagine I sat in the same seat as Teddy Roosevelt once did and that we both ordered Maryland crab soup.

But before that we wanted to pick up Georgetown cupcakes to carry on our flight. Despite it being the fourth day of our trip, we got disoriented when we left our hotel. We turned right towards the White House instead of left towards Georgetown and didn’t realize it until we were basically at the Old Ebbitt Grill. So we walked from the Embassy Suites to Old Ebbitt Grill, turned around and passed the Embassy Suites on our way into Georgetown, then back to the Old Ebbitt Grill again. (Always wear walking shoes in DC.)  After lunch we called an Uber — Uber Black because we fully took advantage of being driven around that week — back to Reagan and flew home to our cupcake dessert.

POTATO LEEK ARUGULA SOUP, inspired by Giada De Laurentiis

You’ll need:
3 tbsp olive oil, divided
2 leeks, green parts discarded, white parts washed and chopped*
1/2 tsp salt
4 Yukon gold potatoes (about 1lb), peeled and diced*
4 cups chicken broth*
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
1 parmesan rind
1 5oz container baby arugula
Juice of 1/2 lemon

*Really I use what I have when it comes to the quantity of potatoes, leeks, and broth. I usually use more than this, and fill the liquid to just barely cover the vegetables.

Heat a Dutch oven over medium heat, and add 2 tbsp olive oil, the leeks, and salt. Cook until the leeks are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and stir to combine, and let cook for about 1 minute. Add enough broth to just barely cover the vegetables. Add the red pepper flakes and parmesan rind. Bring to a simmer, then simmer at medium low until the potatoes are cooked through, about 20 minutes. Stir in the arugula and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat, and remove the parmesan rind. Add the remaining 1 tbsb of olive oil and the lemon juice. Let cool slightly, then use an immersion blender to completely purée the soup.

50/50 On If The Fall Loaf Will Release Cleanly From The Pan

In 2012 I made a return to Sur La Table and in exchange came home with a brand new Nordic Ware bundt pan, the traditional, fluted, ring-shaped one. I had recently started working at the bakery and was obsessed with the shape of our coffee cakes, all of which were made in these pans. I knew nothing of their baking lore, just that they were beautiful and elegant and turned out cake stand-worthy coffee cakes. I figured I’d become a person who bakes a bundt every weekend, and I started with Martha Stewart’s lemon ginger bundt, which narrowly beat out Joy the Baker’s chocolate bundt in my lineup.

I didn’t become a weekly cake baker, of course, but looking back I credit that moment as the one that sparked my true baking passion. From there I was on to nectarine pies and homemade pizzas in that same Ann Arbor, blue-painted kitchen, the one I would have to leave abruptly after a major dispute with my landlord. My next kitchen was the tiny one that shared its space with my entryway, and there I tried homemade pop tarts and the plum cake for the first time. I  made Heidi Swanson’s biscottini and shared with my then-new boyfriend, Jeff, and we baked another batch together, dipped them in white chocolate, and took bags to our respective family Christmas parties. Shortly thereafter I moved again, to a new kitchen closer to Jeff’s kitchen, and one fall morning we woke up and drove to Williams Sonoma to buy the Nordic Ware Fall Harvest Loaf Pan and a box of their pumpkin bread mix.

Since then we’ve tried several different pumpkin bread recipes, and have finally settled on a favorite. Jenn’s family recipe comes from her grandmother and hasn’t changed in over fifty years. In other words, it’s classic. It puts cloves on equal footing with cinnamon and nutmeg, which I unexpectedly loved. The recipe yields two loaves, so you can bake one in a the Fall Harvest Loaf Pan and the other in a regular loaf pan. Which is good because 50/50 on if the fall loaf will release cleanly from the pan, but that’s part of the fun!

Transcript of an actual conversation between me and Jeff:

Him:  “You baking anything today?”

Me:  “Thinking about it!”

Him:  “More of that pumpkin bread maybe?”

PUMPKIN BREAD, from Jenn Segal

You’ll need:
2 cups AP flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp cloves
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp nutmeg
3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
2 cups sugar
2 eggs
1 15oz can pumpkin purée

Heat oven to 325. Prepare 2 loaf pans by lightly-but-efficiently spraying the interior with baking spray and then dusting a thin layer of flour over the baking spray.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

In the bowl of a stand mixer (or, with a hand mixer), beat together the butter and sugar until just combined. Add the eggs one at a time and beat until combined, then continue beating until the mixture is light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the pumpkin purée and beat until combined; the mixture may look curdled at this point and that is ok. Slowly add the flour mixture and beat until just combined.

Divide the batter among the 2 prepared loaf pans. Bake for 65-75 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes before releasing them from the pans. Allow to cool completely on a wire rack.

Simple Soup for People You Love

Would you believe I used to think soup was a difficult thing? In my early twenties a friend invited a group over for split pea soup, and I thought: wow, she really loves us. That was before I taught myself to cook, and a decade before Jeff made me butternut squash soup on our third date, kicking off the Jess & Jeff tour of puréed soups. We’ve built quite the repertoire [Exhibits A, B, C, D, E], because the reality is that soups are generally easy.

You can still make them for people you love, though.

Two nights ago, the day after a major grocery shop, while Jeff went for a run and then cleaned up the dozens of sticks this week’s rain left in our yard, while the baby napped soundly after a walk with KP in the morning and a surprise visit from her cousin Marin in the afternoon, I did just that. It was Friday, so we could have ordered Buddy’s Pizza, but it was also the first week of fall, and I was ready to get cozy on the couch with a blanket, the new season of the Great British Baking Show, and a warm bowl of soup.

This puréed soup is actually the easiest I’ve made yet. Whereas most have to simmer for 20-30 minutes to fully cook the vegetables, the body of this soup comes from three cans of white beans; it simmers for all of three(!) minutes. As has already been established, canned beans are a new parent’s saving grace [Exhibits A, B]. For that reason, along with the flavor imparted from the caramelized onions, we will be making this again!

I opted to also make the kale pesto Jenny suggests mixing into your bowl, but you could certainly skip that. (It was tasty, but involved blanching greens, which is not generally a task for new parents.) And finally, I served the soup alongside a salad of farro and butternut squash, because I really can’t get enough of fall. It’s “our family’s favorite season,” as we’ve been telling Olivia!

EASIEST WHITE BEAN SOUP, inspired by Jenny Rosenstrach, from her excellent new book The Weekday Vegetarians

You’ll need:
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 small yellow onion, chopped
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1 lg garlic clove, minced
3 cans of cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
2-1/2 to 3 cups vegetable stock
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
Salt and Pepper

In a dutch oven over low eat, combine 3 tbsp of the olive oil, the onion, red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the onion is lightly caramelized, about 7 minutes (and feel free to go longer for more caramel-y flavor). Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the beans and pour over just enough stock to cover. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes, until the beans are warmed through. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the vinegar. Let cool slightly, then purée with an immersion blender.

The soup is simple and great as is, but optionally serve with pesto, croutons, toast, chopped herbs, etc.

Pasta alla Norma: A Blessing in Surprise

I haven’t found the time to make ratatouille yet this summer. As I wrote exactly one year ago, the dish requires quite a bit of “cleaning, sorting, and chopping vegetables, standing over a stove and stirring, seasoning, monitoring heat,” and, well, as a point of comparison from this year to last, I just asked to borrow my sister’s Instant Pot. (Oooh, maybe I can make ratatouille in the Instant Pot?!)

It’s a blessing in surprise, though, because we’ve found our other favorite eggplant dish: Pasta alla Norma.

I know, I know, the phrase is “blessing in disguise” (not surprise). Jeff and I can confirm that “parent brain” is real. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve driven away from the house and left the garage door open, and/or left it open all night. A week ago I tried to steam beets, and did so until way past the timer I set, until all the water evaporated, the pot turned black, and the entire house smelled like burnt popcorn. I humbly carried the disaster to the backyard and set it on the brick patio, where it cooled as it sat through a thunderstorm. One of us will start to tell a story, then trail off and never finish, usually because we forget where we are going. Our brain is filled with the cycle of eat-sleep-change-play, with no room for anything else, including proper use of the English language.

Jeff’s sister got married over the weekend, and the shirt he ordered to wear to the outdoor ceremony arrived incorrectly, with no time to exchange it. It was still white, still had a collar, but it was the sportier rather than more formal option. Then as we were getting ready on Saturday he came to tell me — as we monitored the 90 degree temperature with full sun and nearly 100% humidity — that the sportier, cooler option was a “blessing in surprise.”

“A blessing in surprise?”

“Yeah, a blessing in surprise.”

“It’s blessing in disguise.”

...And that was apparently the funniest thing that ever happened! Maybe we were giddy on the freedom of Olivia’s first babysitters, or still coming down from when Jeff said “jarlic” instead of “jar of garlic” the day before, but we were both full-on belly laughing, keeled over in the hallway, at the misuse of phrase. It’s really not that funny!  We know!

Pasta alla Norma is a Sicilian dish of fried eggplant in tomato sauce over a short pasta. This is an extremely simplified version relying on baked eggplant and a jarred sauce. The eggplant is sliced and coated in olive oil, which this sponge-like vegetable absorbs immediately. In the oven it shrinks and toasts in that olive oil, resulting in deeply golden rounds that are crispy, salty, and mushroom-like in texture. It’s the perfect savory addition to a garlicky and slightly sweet tomato sauce.

I feel like eggplant doesn’t get its due, but between this dish, the ratatouille, baba ganoush, and the eggplant and aioli sandwiches my friend Christl used to make me, it’s clearly one of my favorite vegetables. If Olivia is on her best behavior today, we are going to head to the farmers market to pick up some more before the season is over!

PASTA ALLA NORMA, inspired by Cookie & Kate

You’ll need:
2 medium eggplant
Olive oil, salt, and pepper
16 oz of short pasta, such as rotini
1 jar of store-bought tomato sauce (I recommend a roasted garlic variety)
Fresh basil

Heat oven to 425. Line two sheet trays with parchment paper.

Use a vegetable peeler to shave off alternating strips on each eggplant. Then slice each into half-inch thick rounds. Divide the rounds among the sheet trays. Brush each with olive oil on both sides, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake until deeply golden and toasty, about 35 minutes, flipping the rounds and rotating the trays halfway. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to the package instructions. Heat the tomato sauce in a saucepan.

Cut each eggplant round into quarters and add to the tomato sauce. (I find it is much easier to cook and cut the eggplant this way, rather than to chop them completely before roasting. Smaller pieces tend to lose their shape and are difficult to flip, resulting in a texture that is more mushy than crisp.)

Combine the cooked pasta and tomato-eggplant sauce in a large bowl or serving dish. Sprinkle with fresh, torn basil.